The Herbarie

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Everyone Loves Aloe Vera!


Aloe Vera Loves You Too!

I’ve created a light summer lotion (or skin care serum) formula and I want to share it with you! This formula is chock full of Aloe Vera and features Plantamulse Pastilles as the complete emulsifier. For those who want to make a smooth, very fine particle size lotion or serum, Plantamulse Pastilles can do it!!





Here are the details on Plantamulse Pastilles:

ECOCERT PlantaMulse™ Pastilles - Natural Plant Source, PEG-free, biodegradable emulsifier and emollient made from the esters of glycerin and fatty acids.
PlantaMulse™Pastilles has the ability to form lamellar liquid-crystalline structures in water which provides exceptional stability and superb re-fatting properties and sensory characteristics.

PlantaMulse™Pastilles functions as an o/w emulsifier and emollient for creams, lotions, serums, and other emulsions and will leave skin feeling exceptionally soft, smooth and conditioned.

Formulating Guidelines:

● PlantaMulse™Pastilles can be used as a complete self-emulsifier for elegant light lotions or serums at very low percentages - typically 3.0%.
● For creams and lotions where greater viscosity is desired, 1-2% fatty alcohol (ie. behenyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol), fatty acid (stearic acid), or medium HLB co-emulsifier (PlantaEm), or low HLB co-emulsifier (ie. glyceryl stearate or sorbitan stearate or lecithin) is recommended.
● Water phase viscosity/sensory enhancing ingredients such as VenaSilk, OryzaSilk, UltraMaize, XanThix, or HEC are recommended.


Product Characteristics:

●PlantaMulse™Pastilles provides all natural, PEG-free emulsification for skin care lotions, serums, and other emulsions.
●PlantaMulse™Pastilles has excellent compatibility with most ingredients and due to its lamellar liquid-crystalline structure is a perfect carrier for active ingredients.
●PlantaMulse™Pastilles is supplied in easy to use pastilles and will form smooth white emulsions with a soft conditioned feel.
●PlantaMulse™Pastilles exhibits excellent stability at elevated temperatures and good freeze/thaw stability from pH 4.5-8.5.
●PlantaMulse™Pastilles is free from ethylene oxide and nitrosamines, is biocompatible and biodegradable.


Recommended Usage: 3.0% for most emulsions
INCI Name: Polyglyceryl-3 Methyglucose Distearate
Physical Form: Creamy white pastilles
HLB Value: 12
Nonionic


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I am loving this cool, silky and soothing emulsion! I'm often asked about non-whitening, non-soaping emulsion formulas. I am also asked every day about formulas with Aloe Vera! So, for this formula my goal was to formulate a light, cool, non-whitening lotion with Aloe Vera!






Fatty alcohols are key ingredients for building body and viscosity in emulsions, but do create a whitening or soaping effect. So I had to come up with a different strategy for building body and viscosity. I used HEC to build stability/viscosity from the water phase. I used skin loving Shealoe to build viscosity from the oil phase. The result: Very light, non-soaping emulsion!

● Fabulous for a light summer lotion!
● Excellent for a silky skin care serum!
● Effective as an after-sun, skin soother!
Shealoe and Lavender Skin Soothing Lotion with Plantamulse Pastilles

All natural Plantamulse Pastilles is the complete emulsifier in this very stable and silky smooth emulsion. Shealoe offers well known skin care benefits of aloe vera and shea butter and also provides viscosity to this formula. Aloe Vera Oil Extract, Extra Virgin Coconut Oil, and Calendula Extract OS further enrich and soothe skin.

HEC (Hydroxyethyl Cellulose) builds viscosity through the water phase and adds a nice feel in application. The Herbarie’s Lavender Hydrosol and Aloe Vera 100% Liquid are utilized as the entire water phase of this formula.

Our preservative system for this formula includes Aloe Advanced Leucidal as the primary antimicrobial along with Rosemary Antioxidant CO2 Extract and Lavender Essential Oil. Rosemary CO2 Extract also serves as the powerful antioxidant in the formula and Lavender EO is valued for its fresh clean scent as well as its benefits to skin.

This natural system works synergistically to soothe, moisturize, and condition skin - without greasiness or a “soaping/whitening effect” - and leaves skin fabulously soft and silky. The finished emulsion is medium to low viscosity and could function as a skin care serum or light lotion especially nice in summer, but lovely to use any time of the year.


Part A
Lavender Hydrosol 69.40% = 347 grams
Aloe Vera 100% Liquid 10.0% = 50 grams
Part B
Plantamulse Pastilles 3.0% = 15 grams
Shealoe 3.0% = 15 grams
Aloe Vera Oil Extract 3.0% = 15grams
Extra Virgin Coconut Oil 3.0% = 15grams
Calendula Extract OS 3.0% = 15grams
HEC 1.5% = 7.5 grams

Part C
Aloe Advanced Leucidal 3.0% = 15 grams
Lavender Essential Oil 1.0% = 5 grams
Rosemary CO2 Extract 0.1% = 0.5 grams

Total: 100% = 500 grams

Part A (water phase) – Combine and heat ingredients to 175F.

Part B (oil phase) - Weigh HEC and set aside. Combine all other ingredients in and heat to melt point (approximately 175F). Remove melted/hot oils from heat. Disperse HEC into hot oils, stirring to separate particles.

Add Part A (water phase) to Part B (oil phase). Allow emulsion to stand for one minute before mixing. After one minute, begin mixing and continue until cooldown. Cool to 50C/122F, add Part D and mix until smooth.


I've used our Magic Airless Dispensers for this emulsion. But our Pearl Airless Dispensers can also be used. We offer several sizes: 50 ml Magic Airless White, 30 ml Pearl Airless, and coming soon - 200 ml Magic Frosted and Magic White.

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Well, it's daylight and time to go outside. I love my ponds and water creatures!

Keep cool and let's hope for rain soon!

Angie